Late model Cal/EV FI Tuneup Procedure

 
For what it is worth, here is a little ditty on tuning up the new Cali models with the 1.5M computers.  The V11 models are set-up very similar, but all the linkage adjustments are in different locations. I have seen a lot of folks think that they should set up the 1.5M bikes at a TPS of 360-380mv.  This is wrong!  Those readings in the 300's are for bikes with 1.6M, P8, etc.  The newer ones call for 3.6 degrees for throttle opening, which I found to be 500-525mv.  I bought the Motorbike Diagnostic Software Tool and mapped the TPS voltage vs. throttle degrees open on the ECU.  Mike Haven has my chart posted at mphcycle.com.  I also got some values a guy posted for a Centauro in Australia and they jibe with my numbers, as do the numbers I looked at on an '00 V11 Sport and an '02 Spec. Sport.

First off, if you have not done so yet, you need to adjust your valves. Adjust them to the European specs, NOT the American ones.  Also, for the first service, it is a good idea to re-torque the cylinder heads as follows:

DO THIS PROCEDURE WITH A STONE COLD MOTOR!!!

1. Remove valve covers.

2. Remove sight plug on flywheel housing on right side of motor

3. Rotate rear wheel of motorcycle with bike in a high gear untill you see timing marks in the window.  "D" is for right side, "S" is for left. It helps if the spark plugs have been removed. If you have no way of lifting the rear wheel off the ground to spin the rear tire, place the bike in neutral and remove the front alternator cover and use a wrench to rotate the motor clockwise.  Watch the rockers arms.  The intake should open, then close, then you should see the timing mark.  This way you know you are on top dead center at the top of the power stroke.  You will also see the timing marks after the exhaust opens then closes, but this is the wrong TDC since it is the top of the intake stroke. Stick something in the plug hole and verify you are at TDC.  The timing marks have been known to be slightly off on some models.

4. Check the existing valve clearance and record it for record.

5. Remove the rocker arm shafts and rocker arms.

6. Starting with the 4 bolts that hold the rocker arm bridge down, loosen one then re-tighten it to 32-35 ft-lbs [ed note: head torque is 30 ft-lbf. I never loosen before re-torquing, but thatís me. I also donít bother removing the rocker base to re-torque if the 5 exposed head bolts donít budge upon re-torquing-chances are that the 6th bolt is fine if this is the case-ed the ed.]  Do each bolt one at a time working in a criss-cross fashion.  Never loosen more than one bolt at a time!! Now do the bolt near the spark plug and then remove the allen plug cover at the top of the head and do the one underneath.  You will need a large (10mm) allen socket to do the top bolt.

7. Replace rocker arms and rocker shafts, recheck valve clearances and then set them to euro specs.

8. Do the other side starting at step 3.

9. Put everything back together!

  Now that you have your valves adjusted for the first time, proceed to the throttle body synch....

1. Take the bike for a spin to warm it up.

2. Go to www.adventuremotorcyclegear.com and buy a twinmax [note: mercury carb sticks work fine as well- ed the ed.].

3. Disconnect hoses coming off the intake on each side and hook up the Twinmax.

4. Remove covers over top of throttle bodies.

5. Back off the screw in the middle of the linkage where the throttle cable comes in at so it does not touch anything. This is the choke/fast idle set screw.

6. Remove e-clip that holds linkage over throttle body on left side (this is the TPS side since this throttle body as the TPS on it). Take care not to loose the e-clip.  I wrap tape around the back side of the linkage so if the e-clip wants to fly off the post, the tape catches it. Remove the linkage from the TPS side.  Look under each throttle body.  You will see a brass screw, which is the air bleed.  Close these on each side.

On V11 models, the TPS is on the right side throttle body and the linkage is held to this side by a ball joint. The air bleeds are either on the top or bottom (sorry- canít remember off hand).

7. You will see a throttle stop screw on each throttle body (above the throttle body).  Back these off so they do not touch the butterfly stops. Use a 2.5mm allen wrench and dig out all the yellow paint crap with a needle.

These are hard to find on V11 models.  They are under the throttle body and the TPS side one points in towards the bike.

8. Using a multimeter, disconnect the TPS and the main plug at the ECU and trace the wires that are on the outside of the TPS connector back to the plug in the ECU. On the TPS, the middle wire is +5 volts DC from the ECU, one of the outer wires is ground back to the ECU, and the other outside wire is the signal from the TPS to the ECU. Once you have identified which one the ground and return signal back to the ECU are, plug everything back together and stick your probes into the back of the ECU connector into the two positions you just traced out. It may be easier to stick a small piece of stiff wire (pin, needle, paper clip) into the back of the connector where the wires go in instead of the multimeter probes.  You can then alligator clip onto these pieces of stiff wire.  Most mulitmeter probes are rather large and cannot be pushed into the back of the connector along with the wire you want to probe.
  
This setup will let you read voltage values off of the TPS while the bike is running.

9. Turn the ignition on and kill switch on but do not start the bike. With the throttle plate stop screws backed off, your multimeter Should read 150mv across the two wire positions you traced out.  If not, loosen the 2 screws that hold the TPS to the throttle body and rotate it to get 150mv and re-tighten screws.

10. Turn in TPS side throttle plate stop until you get 500 to 525mv on your multimeter.  Turn in the non-TPS side throttle plate stop screw until it just touches the butterfly stop. Most folks will tell you 360-380mv  but this is wrong for the new bikes with 1.5M computers.  500-525 is the correct number for the new machines. After this step, do not touch the TPS side throttle stop screw!

11. Start the bike.  Using the non-TPS side throttle stop screw and the   Twinmax, balance the throttle bodies.  Your bike should now be balanced and idling at 800-1000 rpm.

12. Now open the airbleeds about 1/2 turn and use them to balance the    throttle bodies.  The idle should now come up to 1100-1200 rpm by adjusting the airbleeds.

13. Bike should be idling very good now and throttle bodies should be balanced.

14. Reconnect linkage that you unhooked earlier. You may have to adjust the linkage screw on top of the TPS side throttle body as you want the link to drop onto this throttle body without having to open either throttle body.
Rev bike to 2500 RPM and use linkage adjustment screw on top of TPS side throttle body to balance the throttle bodies.

On V11 models, the throttle linkage adjustment screw is the white knob scene when looking in from the left side of the bike.

15. Using the screw in the middle of the linkage you backed off earlier, pull in the "choke" lever and use this to set the engine speed at a high idle. The bike should return to normal idle when "choke" lever is released.

16.  Replace throttle body covers, you are done!

17. Now you can adjust the CO% is you have the factory program (www.technoresearch.com  or www.ferracci.com) or take it to a dealer to have it done.

If you do not feel comfortable with any step in the process or have never balanced out carbs/throttle bodies on a bike, take it to someone that has and get further assistance!

Go to http://www.dpguzzi.com/ to download the P7/P8 injection manual.
The P7/P8 manual is for older machines. The newer machines have a 1.5M ECU in it.  My steps are the same as the manual, but with updated numbers for idle figures and TPS settings.   Also, the pin numbers they reference for the TPS on the ECU are different for your bike than what they call out (in the manual), that's why you must trace them out with a multimeter.  To trim the CO% on your machine, you need a shop with the Motorbike Diagnostic Software Tool or need to know someone near you that has paid the money to buy their own copy.  With the software and an exhaust gas analyzer, you can now do everything the dealer can. 

This whole procedure including the valve adjustment will take several hours.


Jeffery Brannen
mid_ohio_jeff@yahoo.com