* The odometer runs a few percentage point high; but, then, I've done a couple of cross-country trips with a broken speedometer cable--let's not quibble.
Picture taken a few of days ago at a Lakeview Oregon motel on the
Return trip to Kansas: http://members.cox.net/dankalal2/july2003/br173.JPG
So, in no particular order, here we go:
-piston/rings - original
-Crank/rods/bearings - original
-Cylinders - original
-Transmission - original
-Valves - replaced once (note: need to set the gap at TDC, not at maximum gap on cam)
-valve train and cam shaft - original
-Clutch - worst part of the bike. The original clutch lasted less than 5,000 miles (replaced under warranty). I get about 35,000 miles (sometimes more) before the splines are worn to a taper, and the clutch no longer releases. This problem seems more common to Cal2s than banything else. I've been using the deep spline since 1993; it's better, but doesn't end the problem.
-exhaust - nothing wrong with the original except that it's impossible to remove the rear wheel without removing the left exhaust. Replaced ages ago with a set of Dunstall replicas, which can stay put when the wheel comes off.
-Rear end box - wheel splines replaced at 200,000 miles, otherwise original
+Drive shaft and coupling - original
+U-joint - seems to be good for around 60,000 miles. After having the thing disintegrate along with the carrier bearing, I'm pretty conscientious about replacing the carrier bearing more often than the u-joint. The carrier bearing gets replaced with every clutch change (it's cheap).
-Exhaust cross-over - these things seem to burn up (at the 'T') after180,000 miles.
-oil lines - original
-gaskets - sump pan set replaced once (accidentally torn). Valve cover replaced at ~50,000 miles with sample set of orange silicone gaskets.
Never replaced since. Base gaskets original, head gaskets replaced with new valves.
-Seat - Original. Go figure; I love the stock seat!
-Induction - Got tired of messing with the airbox with each clutch change, so I changed to K&N. These cannot possibly be as good at filtering as the OEM filter, so I am careful to keep them well oiled.
-Throttle cables - replaced just last month after the metal ends became a little sloppy. Otherwise they would seem to last forever.
-Speedometer - still works, but now reads about 15% too slow (I rely on an electronic bicycle unit)
-Tachometer - still works with original cable.
-Points - After dealing with a balky mechanical advance mechanism, I replaced the whole thing at 150,000 miles with a Lucas Rita. Wish I had done that at 0 miles. I've never understood why the Dyna system is so very popular, while the Lucas system is hardly ever seen. Surely people don't actually believe all those jokes about warm beer and the Prince of Darkness? A pity...
-Cam chain - the original was replaced at 60,000 at which point I changed to the Guzzi auto-tensioner. Since then it's been replaced once for no particular reason except that it seemed a reasonable thing to do (the tensioner was left alone). These things may actually last forever.
-Brakes - original rotors, but they're clearly worn. I've used DOT 5 since new (and, yes, I know that you aren't supposed to add DOT 5 to Brembo brakes without horrible results).
-Oil - changed every 2,000 miles (conventional mineral) with the tranny/rear end replaced every 6,000 miles. Same moly mix always used in the tranny/rear end.
-windshield - I've always liked the OEM shield , but since two cracked out at around 100,000 each, I replaced it with a National Cycle shield. It works better, anyway.
-saddle bags and trunk - original
-light bulbs - replaced one turn signal bulb, everything else is original.
-starter - rebuilt three times now. It's a pretty cheap thing to do.
-metal fatigue failures - side stand bracket, right-rear shock attachment bolt, horn brackets, nose-piece of starter.
Dan Kalal
7/14/03