1)  Evaporative Emissions System:  Remove the whole system and run the fuel tank vent hoses to the ground (like a world spec bike).  Connect the intake manifold ports together with a hose.  There are several reasons to remove the system.

2)  TPS:  You should probably verify the throttle position sensor output before you change anything else on the FI.   Check it carefully as described below before adjustment, and note where it is currently set for future reference in case you want to get back where you started!

The TPS is on the right hand throttle body and is retained by two torx-head screws (on 1100 Sports, flathead on others), which I replaced on mine with flathead screws removed from an old Dellorto carburetor.  The TPS output is measured at terminals number 16 and 30 on the computer (under the seat). You will need to remove the computer from the bike and take off the connector cover to get access to the terminals.  Then reinstall the computer without the connector cover and you can measure the voltage with the computer operating/ignition on.  For God's sake don't forget to reconnect the ground wires when you reinstall the unit!  Also never touch the computer connections in any way until the ignition has been shut off for 30 or more seconds -- There is time delay relay on the computer power supply!

The TPS output is supposed to be 150 mV +/- 5 mV (digital voltmeter) when the ignition is on and right throttle is completely closed.  To check this you must disconnect the right hand ball joint on the crossover rod by prying it apart with a screwdriver.  It won't be damaged if you're careful.  Let the RH throttle plate snap closed a few times to make sure it is fully seated before any adjustment, and do it again after you reset the TPS to make sure!  Oh yes, also make sure that the idle screw on the right hand throttle is completely backed out, or removed.  The LH idle screw should be used for idle control; the RH screw is redundant.

This is where things get a bit tricky:  I have found that the TPS output sags 20mV or more in an inconsistent manner when the engine is stopped.  It stabilizes at a higher value when the alternator is spinning on my bike. So I set the TPS output to 150 mV with the bike running.  But the RH throttle must be completely closed to do this, so basically the bike is running like crap at 1200 rpm on only the left cylinder when I reset the TPS!  The throttle linkage is disconnected.

Take note that the sensor is EXTREMELY sensitive when you adjust it.  When you tighten the screws it can sometimes push the output voltage out of spec. so its an iterative process to get the TPS set correctly with the engine running and RH throttle body completely closed.  A bit tricky!

After you get done with TPS adjustment reconnect the throttle linkage crossover rod, and reinstall the cover on the connector.

3)  Idle Mixture Screw:  This is located in the computer under the rubber plug, which is covered by the Moto Guzzi labeled decal.  It's a tiny screw on a trim potentiometer; use an eyeglass screwdriver.  The full range of adjustment is 270 degrees and clockwise is leaner, CCW is richer.  Adjust the screw full rich (full CCW) for now.

4)  Throttle Plate Synchronization: First completely close the bypass screws located on the bottom of the throttle bodies.  Then synch the throttles at 2500 rpm with the thumb-wheel on the crossover linkage.  Check to make sure its more or less synched over a range of RPMs, but it won't be perfect everywhere.  Use a good set of carb sticks and get it as close as possible.

5)  Bypass Screws: Open both bypass screws (after throttle synching) to about 1/2 turn open before removing the carb sticks.  Adjust one side to get the idle sych spot on.  One side will probably need to be a little more open than the other to maintain synch at idle.  Recheck the higher rpm synch after you open the bypass screws.

6)  Idle Speed: Set the idle speed at 1200 rpm with the left hand TB idle stop screw, recheck synch everywhere and disconnect the carb sticks.

Now go out and test ride it!

If the bike runs OK you can experiment a bit with leaning out the idle mixture screw.  If it starts to miss at a leaner screw setting richen it up to the point that it doesn't.
 
 

I would like to point out that Will Creedon offers an exceptionally well researched map chip for the ECU that cures almost all of the FI ills of the Sport 1100i. Will also has chips for Daytonas and Centauros.Contact Will at:

Will's excellent instructions are enough for anyone with a digital voltmeter to set up their own TPS. I would like to add the following illustrations (liberally scanned from original Moto Guzzi manuals and cleaned up in PhotoShop) and some observations of my own.

In the procedure, pin outs are for the Sport 1100i, Daytona RS and Centauro, the diagrams are for the Sport 1100i only.

ALLof the other EFI Guzzi's, EV's, Bassa's, whatever will have different computer connections, TPS housings and maybe different wiring color coding. DO NOT ASSUME that the procedure is a universal panacea for every goose rolling around on two wheels with an ECU in it. You could do real damage pulling connectors apart on the computer etc. FWIW, my personal take is stick to the sensor itself and use the 150mv specification in accordance with the physical part of the adjustment. If you're uncomfortable with pulling linkages, then don't, you will still get good results - providing that the original idle stop has never been changed, if it has, you will have to disengage the right side from the left per Will's instructions. I do urge using a good set of balance sticks or a TwinMax in addition to setting the TPS.

If you're on this web site, than you know that I have a wiring harness layout schematic and a legend for the wiring as well. You're welcome to refer to this diagram. It is essentially correct and it get's corrected as I receive feedback from users. Unlike the diagram that came with the Sport 1100i, at least I have gone through the effort to supply the EFI connections as well.

Rather than going through the labor of removing the seat and playing around with the computer connector, you can access the wires right at the TPS. The wire colors at the sensor (not the computer) that you check across are Pin A (white) and pin C (red/black) - the outside terminals on the connector. The center terminal (yellow) you don't use for setting the TPS as that is the + voltage supply from the ECU.

It's very easy to do. Here's how:

1) Remove the torx screws if you don't have a torx wrench that fits. I filed a slot and used a screwdriver to remove them. In place of the torx screws install some metric allen head screws. That would be M4 .7 15mm metric coarse screws. It really helps to place a very small round washer under the head of the allen screw and the original sqare plate to decouple the screw rotation from the TPS housing when loosening or tightening the screw. Make sure you have the correct allen wrench for your newly upgraded TPS mount.

2) Get two fairly stiff pieces of bare wire (I use safety wire) about 1 1/2" long.

3) Pull back the rubber weather cover from the TPS wiring harness connection.

4 Slip one wire alongside the TPS wiring in the connector all of the way in until it bottoms, one on each side, A and C.

5) Hook up the digital voltmeter and start your procedure.